Tjyylli

I'm currently using a 5 year-old Giant Escape R3 (2015)(https://www.giant.co.jp/giant15/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000060) hybrid bike that I bought used (down to $400 from $500 retail price) from a bike shop at almost-new condition (I suspect it was a display/trial model). Thus far I've replaced most of the cables once or twice, cable housing and chain once, and have replaced 2 broken drive-side spokes from the rear wheel (trued by eye). I've also swapped out the mostly bald stock Maxxis Detonator tires with a pair of Schwalbe Marthon GreenGuards. Before then I've had to patch up at least 3 rear tire punctures and am still using all-stock tubes since they still seem to hold air just as well. I'm not religious about cleaning, but I do general maintenance every couple of months particularly after the rainy seasons.

At this point I'm wondering if the following "upgrades" would be worth it:

• Wheels: Swap stock Spinforce (no, not really) Lites to an entry-level Shimano set like the RS100 ($100). They're the same price as the R501's but I prefer the simpler look (11S spacers also come free).


• Inner tubes: Swap patched up brandless inner tubes for something fresher like a pair of Panaracer RAir's (2x$11). Do these butyl/latex hybrids hold air for long?


• BB: Replace questionable VP BC73 with a Shimano BB-UN55 ($19). I do get the occasional clicking/knocking feel when pedalling really hard uphill, but don't notice any play when wiggling by hand.


• Crankset: Replace stock Prowheel 48-38-28 crank for a similar spec Shimano Acera M361 ($44).

That's as far as the more reasonable changes go. However, I'm also wondering if it would be nice to actually upgrade the groupset ever so slightly (newer Altus, Acera, Alivio mix). Like changing to a 9-speed cassette and replacing the old Altus EF51 shifters with something that doesn't wreck shifter cables. Note that the rear derailleur is also pretty banged up after a few rainy day crashes, but still works mostly fine.

I do eventually plan on buying a higher-end road bike for long trips and commuting, but will retain this one for grocery runs and whatnot. Though this will definitely still be my commuter for at least the rest of the year. Already picked out a pannier rack and some new grips with bar ends.

Any advice or recommendations are appreciated!

Cable replacements, chain, tubes, all those are "consumables" Even spoke replacement is not an uncommon problem to have periodically. A bike isn't a cellphone to be discarded when its a bit tired - periodic maintenance is easy.

Consider that if you were using a car, there would be oil/filter changes and fuel, perhaps a light bulb every couple years and a windscreen once a decade, plus whatever checks and tests your country requires to licence vehicles. These are all "the cost of using the tool" over time.

Now - your specific points:

Latex tubes will be flat every morning - they're not good at retaining air. But they're lighter than Butyl rubber so good for racing.

I've never heard of latex/butyl hybrid tubes. Could be you're thinking about butyl tubes with liquid latex sealant inside them, ready to seal up holes as soon as they happen. These are heavier again than plain tubes, but can help if you puncture.

Also you can't patch latex tubes - one puncture and they're useless.

Generally speaking, the cost of upgrading components is much higher over time. If your existing component is worn out (say the rear derailleur was busted) then the cost of a like-for-like replacement is the sunk cost, and the difference to a higher spec one is the opportunity cost, or the "cost of upgrade" which is the perfect time to do so.

The common wisdom is first you need to be comfortable on your bike. That means you have the saddle and bars and ergonomics sorted out to suit yourself.

Once that's done, tyres (tires) are the first best upgrade, followed by the whole wheelset. You probably don't want to splurge on top-shelf wheels like Zip, the benefits over mid-range product are marginal, and you'll never be able to leave your fancy bike locked up alone, ever.

Schwalbe Marathon anything tyres are puncture-resistant commuter tyres, which is fine. If your goal is to go fast then race-oriented tyres like Continental GP series would be faster and lighter, but at an increased risk of punctures. Check out http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ for many comparisons there.

As for crankset/BB - I'd only change if the chainrings are worn, or the BB bearings are not smooth. Your existing BB cartridge should spin smoothly with no play, so only replace it if there's a problem. $19 for a replacement cartridge unit is cheap, but that shimano one should be good for 5,000-25,000 km depending on weather.

The single best upgrade for a commuter bike is... Fenders (aka mudguards). If you ride in the rain, then life is so much nicer when you get there cleaner.

To answer the 'is it cost effective?' question you have to know what you are getting for the upgrades. Are replacement components going to be lighter, more efficient or more durable? You could say that if you can't feel the difference then there is no point in upgrading a component.

However, if you enjoy the process of upgrading your bike, and the upgrades make you feel better about it, that's a legitimate return on investment too - especially if you can find good deals or good condition used parts.

If the Shimano wheels are substantially lighter they seem like a reasonable upgrade, especially as you could probably sell them as a separate component if you eventually sell the bike (with it's original wheels on).

I'd replace the crank and bottom bracket together, and upgrade to an external bearing bracket.

If you find yourself wanting to substantially upgrade the whole groupset (say to Deore), then it's time to consider a new bike thats a step-up from your current one.