How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?Why do shelves often fall during the...
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How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?
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I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.
The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.
I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.
- Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?
- When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?
mounting shelf
|
show 1 more comment
I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.
The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.
I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.
- Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?
- When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?
mounting shelf
3
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
1
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
6
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
1
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
1
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.
The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.
I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.
- Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?
- When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?
mounting shelf
I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.
The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.
I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.
- Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?
- When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?
mounting shelf
mounting shelf
edited yesterday
Machavity
8,68022043
8,68022043
asked yesterday
Jakob WeisblatJakob Weisblat
18016
18016
3
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
1
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
6
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
1
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
1
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
3
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
1
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
6
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
1
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
1
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago
3
3
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
1
1
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
6
6
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
1
1
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
1
1
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
It was installed incorrectly.
It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.
Here's an example from NPA:
You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.
When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
add a comment |
TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.
There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:
Anchors
Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.
A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.
You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.
Screws Into Studs
The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.
With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:
- Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.
- Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.
Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.
Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
add a comment |
I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -
but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.
Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.
This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.
New contributor
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.
If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590
If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.
New contributor
add a comment |
There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.
If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.
Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
add a comment |
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6 Answers
6
active
oldest
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6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
active
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active
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It was installed incorrectly.
It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.
Here's an example from NPA:
You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.
When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
add a comment |
It was installed incorrectly.
It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.
Here's an example from NPA:
You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.
When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
add a comment |
It was installed incorrectly.
It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.
Here's an example from NPA:
You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.
When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.
It was installed incorrectly.
It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.
Here's an example from NPA:
You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.
When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.
answered yesterday
Phil FrostPhil Frost
790612
790612
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
add a comment |
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).
– FreeMan
4 hours ago
1
1
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.
– Peter Green
2 hours ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.
– Matthew Leingang
40 mins ago
add a comment |
TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.
There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:
Anchors
Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.
A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.
You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.
Screws Into Studs
The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.
With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:
- Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.
- Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.
There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:
Anchors
Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.
A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.
You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.
Screws Into Studs
The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.
With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:
- Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.
- Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.
There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:
Anchors
Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.
A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.
You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.
Screws Into Studs
The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.
With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:
- Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.
- Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.
TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.
There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:
Anchors
Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.
A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.
You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.
Screws Into Studs
The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.
With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:
- Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.
- Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
manassehkatzmanassehkatz
11.4k1542
11.4k1542
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
4
4
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.
– Mark
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
4
4
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.
– Phil Frost
yesterday
1
1
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...
– gerrit
9 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.
Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.
Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
add a comment |
Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.
Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.
Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
add a comment |
Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.
Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.
Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047
Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.
Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.
Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
DaveMDaveM
1,016416
1,016416
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
add a comment |
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
Whoa, these things are cool!
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
5
5
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.
– Martin Bonner
yesterday
1
1
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…
– Owain
yesterday
add a comment |
I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -
but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.
Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.
This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.
New contributor
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -
but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.
Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.
This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.
New contributor
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -
but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.
Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.
This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.
New contributor
I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -
but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.
Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.
This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 2 hours ago
Jade SteffenJade Steffen
211
211
New contributor
New contributor
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
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Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
Welcome to Home Improvement! Thanks for the answer; keep 'em coming!
– Daniel Griscom
2 hours ago
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Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.
If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590
If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.
New contributor
add a comment |
Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.
If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590
If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.
New contributor
add a comment |
Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.
If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590
If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.
New contributor
Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.
If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590
If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 1 hour ago
BloodGainBloodGain
1012
1012
New contributor
New contributor
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add a comment |
There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.
If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.
Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
add a comment |
There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.
If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.
Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
add a comment |
There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.
If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.
Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.
There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.
If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.
Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.
edited 23 hours ago
answered yesterday
Laurence PayneLaurence Payne
25714
25714
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
add a comment |
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?
– UnhandledExcepSean
yesterday
1
1
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!
– Laurence Payne
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.
– manassehkatz
yesterday
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
Why are we talking about anchors if there's studs . +1
– Mazura
17 hours ago
add a comment |
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3
How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?
– Sean
yesterday
1
I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.
– Jakob Weisblat
yesterday
6
What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.
– Stilez
yesterday
1
If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.
– ShapeOfMatter
23 hours ago
1
Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.
– Jakob Weisblat
23 hours ago