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Heating basement floor with water heater


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2















Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?










share|improve this question







New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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  • 1





    An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

    – blacksmith37
    yesterday






  • 1





    You would need some sort of pump.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday
















2















Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?










share|improve this question







New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

    – blacksmith37
    yesterday






  • 1





    You would need some sort of pump.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday














2












2








2


1






Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?










share|improve this question







New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?







basement heating floor






share|improve this question







New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked yesterday









BigLakeBigLake

527




527




New contributor




BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






BigLake is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1





    An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

    – blacksmith37
    yesterday






  • 1





    You would need some sort of pump.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday














  • 1





    An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

    – blacksmith37
    yesterday






  • 1





    You would need some sort of pump.

    – Hot Licks
    yesterday








1




1





An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

– blacksmith37
yesterday





An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.

– blacksmith37
yesterday




1




1





You would need some sort of pump.

– Hot Licks
yesterday





You would need some sort of pump.

– Hot Licks
yesterday










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















8














Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.



This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youenter image description herewww.floorheatsystems.com



The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.



Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.



The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.



Resistive electric floor heating mats are available enter image description herewww.findanyfloor.com



This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday






  • 1





    Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday











  • I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday











  • Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday



















3














A loop unto itself cannot flow.



Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.



You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.






share|improve this answer
























  • You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

    – Mark
    yesterday



















1














I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly






share|improve this answer



















  • 3





    Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

    – R..
    yesterday











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3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes








3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









8














Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.



This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youenter image description herewww.floorheatsystems.com



The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.



Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.



The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.



Resistive electric floor heating mats are available enter image description herewww.findanyfloor.com



This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday






  • 1





    Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday











  • I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday











  • Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday
















8














Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.



This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youenter image description herewww.floorheatsystems.com



The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.



Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.



The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.



Resistive electric floor heating mats are available enter image description herewww.findanyfloor.com



This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday






  • 1





    Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday











  • I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday











  • Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday














8












8








8







Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.



This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youenter image description herewww.floorheatsystems.com



The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.



Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.



The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.



Resistive electric floor heating mats are available enter image description herewww.findanyfloor.com



This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.






share|improve this answer















Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.



This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youenter image description herewww.floorheatsystems.com



The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.



Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.



The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.



Resistive electric floor heating mats are available enter image description herewww.findanyfloor.com



This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited yesterday









isherwood

49.3k456125




49.3k456125










answered yesterday









Joe FalaJoe Fala

2,244118




2,244118








  • 1





    On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday






  • 1





    Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday











  • I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday











  • Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday














  • 1





    On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday






  • 1





    Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday











  • I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

    – JimmyJames
    yesterday











  • Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday








1




1





On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

– JimmyJames
yesterday





On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.

– JimmyJames
yesterday




1




1





Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

– Joe Fala
yesterday





Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.

– Joe Fala
yesterday













I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

– JimmyJames
yesterday





I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.

– JimmyJames
yesterday













Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

– Joe Fala
yesterday





Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.

– Joe Fala
yesterday




1




1





I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

– Joe Fala
yesterday





I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool

– Joe Fala
yesterday













3














A loop unto itself cannot flow.



Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.



You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.






share|improve this answer
























  • You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

    – Mark
    yesterday
















3














A loop unto itself cannot flow.



Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.



You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.






share|improve this answer
























  • You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

    – Mark
    yesterday














3












3








3







A loop unto itself cannot flow.



Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.



You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.






share|improve this answer













A loop unto itself cannot flow.



Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.



You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









isherwoodisherwood

49.3k456125




49.3k456125













  • You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

    – Mark
    yesterday



















  • You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

    – Mark
    yesterday

















You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

– Mark
yesterday





You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).

– Mark
yesterday











1














I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly






share|improve this answer



















  • 3





    Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

    – R..
    yesterday
















1














I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly






share|improve this answer



















  • 3





    Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

    – R..
    yesterday














1












1








1







I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly






share|improve this answer













I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









d.georged.george

5,8632814




5,8632814








  • 3





    Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

    – R..
    yesterday














  • 3





    Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

    – Joe Fala
    yesterday






  • 1





    This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

    – R..
    yesterday








3




3





Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

– Joe Fala
yesterday





Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective

– Joe Fala
yesterday




1




1





This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

– R..
yesterday





This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.

– R..
yesterday










BigLake is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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BigLake is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.













BigLake is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












BigLake is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
















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