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What is causing the chain skip after chain replacement?


Why is my drivetrain so noisy after replacing the chain?What would be the “definitive” formula to calculate chainstay length from sprocket size, chainring size and number of chain links?Chain slipping on middle chainringWhat does usually worn first, the chain or the cog?Chain ReplacementChain falls to the outside of the chainring, but I can't reproduce the problemChain skip happening seemingly at random with a new chainWhat is causing this chain clicking noise?ideal chain replacement for Redline monocog 29erReplacement vintage Raleigh chain













1















I have a road bike that was converted to single speed with a single sprocket on the read wheel and a single chainring.



I had a 3/32 chain which worked perfectly fine. However after many kms and apparent chains stretch I decided to replace the chain.



I replaced the chain with a single speed 1/8 chain which I assumed would work perfectly, given that there's a single sprocket and chain pitch is standard.




All modern bicycle chains are made to the “one-half inch pitch” standard, meaning from rivet to rivet is nominally 0.5 inches. The sprocket teeth are cut for this same one-half inch standard to accept bicycle chains. However, this does not mean all makes and models of chains are interchangeable. source




Since I replaced the chain, the chain skips on the rear sprocket due to what appear to be misalignment which compounds after a couple of revolutions and then skips.



I tried adjusting the chain tension but that doesn't seem to help.





Hypothesis to explain the problem:




  • The stretched chain had deviated from standard pitch and caused the sprocket (which is relatively old) to match it through constant wear.


How reasonable is that? Should I just replace the sprocket? Could the problem be elsewhere?










share|improve this question


















  • 1





    On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

    – Andy P
    3 hours ago
















1















I have a road bike that was converted to single speed with a single sprocket on the read wheel and a single chainring.



I had a 3/32 chain which worked perfectly fine. However after many kms and apparent chains stretch I decided to replace the chain.



I replaced the chain with a single speed 1/8 chain which I assumed would work perfectly, given that there's a single sprocket and chain pitch is standard.




All modern bicycle chains are made to the “one-half inch pitch” standard, meaning from rivet to rivet is nominally 0.5 inches. The sprocket teeth are cut for this same one-half inch standard to accept bicycle chains. However, this does not mean all makes and models of chains are interchangeable. source




Since I replaced the chain, the chain skips on the rear sprocket due to what appear to be misalignment which compounds after a couple of revolutions and then skips.



I tried adjusting the chain tension but that doesn't seem to help.





Hypothesis to explain the problem:




  • The stretched chain had deviated from standard pitch and caused the sprocket (which is relatively old) to match it through constant wear.


How reasonable is that? Should I just replace the sprocket? Could the problem be elsewhere?










share|improve this question


















  • 1





    On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

    – Andy P
    3 hours ago














1












1








1








I have a road bike that was converted to single speed with a single sprocket on the read wheel and a single chainring.



I had a 3/32 chain which worked perfectly fine. However after many kms and apparent chains stretch I decided to replace the chain.



I replaced the chain with a single speed 1/8 chain which I assumed would work perfectly, given that there's a single sprocket and chain pitch is standard.




All modern bicycle chains are made to the “one-half inch pitch” standard, meaning from rivet to rivet is nominally 0.5 inches. The sprocket teeth are cut for this same one-half inch standard to accept bicycle chains. However, this does not mean all makes and models of chains are interchangeable. source




Since I replaced the chain, the chain skips on the rear sprocket due to what appear to be misalignment which compounds after a couple of revolutions and then skips.



I tried adjusting the chain tension but that doesn't seem to help.





Hypothesis to explain the problem:




  • The stretched chain had deviated from standard pitch and caused the sprocket (which is relatively old) to match it through constant wear.


How reasonable is that? Should I just replace the sprocket? Could the problem be elsewhere?










share|improve this question














I have a road bike that was converted to single speed with a single sprocket on the read wheel and a single chainring.



I had a 3/32 chain which worked perfectly fine. However after many kms and apparent chains stretch I decided to replace the chain.



I replaced the chain with a single speed 1/8 chain which I assumed would work perfectly, given that there's a single sprocket and chain pitch is standard.




All modern bicycle chains are made to the “one-half inch pitch” standard, meaning from rivet to rivet is nominally 0.5 inches. The sprocket teeth are cut for this same one-half inch standard to accept bicycle chains. However, this does not mean all makes and models of chains are interchangeable. source




Since I replaced the chain, the chain skips on the rear sprocket due to what appear to be misalignment which compounds after a couple of revolutions and then skips.



I tried adjusting the chain tension but that doesn't seem to help.





Hypothesis to explain the problem:




  • The stretched chain had deviated from standard pitch and caused the sprocket (which is relatively old) to match it through constant wear.


How reasonable is that? Should I just replace the sprocket? Could the problem be elsewhere?







chain single-speed sprocket






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked 3 hours ago









DanielDaniel

1586




1586








  • 1





    On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

    – Andy P
    3 hours ago














  • 1





    On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

    – Andy P
    3 hours ago








1




1





On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

– Andy P
3 hours ago





On a geared bike the usual approximation is 2 chains per cassette. On a single speed with only 1 sprocket to wear, it seems likely that a new sprocket will be needed whenever the chain is changed

– Andy P
3 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















3














Yes, the stretched chain wears the chain ring and sprockets to match its pitch. It's recommended to use a chain gauge (such as this one by Park Tools) so you can replace your chain before it's stretched enough to do significant damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do let the chain stretch too far, you'll need to change the cassette/rear cog and/or chain ring(s).



The teeth of new chain rings have a mostly symmetrical profile; worn ones acquire a characteristic "shark fin" shape that's steeper on one side than the other and quite pointy at the top. On a one-by or single-speed bike, that's pretty easy to identify; on a bike with front derailleurs, be aware that the chain rings tend to have several teeth with funny profiles from new, to aid with shifting.






share|improve this answer































    2














    Why did you replace a 3/32" chain with a 1/8" one?? I agree that it seems like it would work, given the pitch and lack of cages to run through, but there will still be a lot of sideways slop leading to, at least, more noise and wear. And no benefit whatsoever. And the narrower chains are even more common.



    Often the diameter of the pins is greater on 1/8" chains, so it might not be seating well between the teeth. The most common cause of a new chain skipping is an over-tight joining link but that should not happen on a single-speed setup, though it could if it's really tight, but you probably would have seen that. And I second the answer about wear to the teeth profiles. Consider replacing the rear sprocket.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.





















    • I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

      – Daniel
      24 mins ago











    Your Answer








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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    Yes, the stretched chain wears the chain ring and sprockets to match its pitch. It's recommended to use a chain gauge (such as this one by Park Tools) so you can replace your chain before it's stretched enough to do significant damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do let the chain stretch too far, you'll need to change the cassette/rear cog and/or chain ring(s).



    The teeth of new chain rings have a mostly symmetrical profile; worn ones acquire a characteristic "shark fin" shape that's steeper on one side than the other and quite pointy at the top. On a one-by or single-speed bike, that's pretty easy to identify; on a bike with front derailleurs, be aware that the chain rings tend to have several teeth with funny profiles from new, to aid with shifting.






    share|improve this answer




























      3














      Yes, the stretched chain wears the chain ring and sprockets to match its pitch. It's recommended to use a chain gauge (such as this one by Park Tools) so you can replace your chain before it's stretched enough to do significant damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do let the chain stretch too far, you'll need to change the cassette/rear cog and/or chain ring(s).



      The teeth of new chain rings have a mostly symmetrical profile; worn ones acquire a characteristic "shark fin" shape that's steeper on one side than the other and quite pointy at the top. On a one-by or single-speed bike, that's pretty easy to identify; on a bike with front derailleurs, be aware that the chain rings tend to have several teeth with funny profiles from new, to aid with shifting.






      share|improve this answer


























        3












        3








        3







        Yes, the stretched chain wears the chain ring and sprockets to match its pitch. It's recommended to use a chain gauge (such as this one by Park Tools) so you can replace your chain before it's stretched enough to do significant damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do let the chain stretch too far, you'll need to change the cassette/rear cog and/or chain ring(s).



        The teeth of new chain rings have a mostly symmetrical profile; worn ones acquire a characteristic "shark fin" shape that's steeper on one side than the other and quite pointy at the top. On a one-by or single-speed bike, that's pretty easy to identify; on a bike with front derailleurs, be aware that the chain rings tend to have several teeth with funny profiles from new, to aid with shifting.






        share|improve this answer













        Yes, the stretched chain wears the chain ring and sprockets to match its pitch. It's recommended to use a chain gauge (such as this one by Park Tools) so you can replace your chain before it's stretched enough to do significant damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do let the chain stretch too far, you'll need to change the cassette/rear cog and/or chain ring(s).



        The teeth of new chain rings have a mostly symmetrical profile; worn ones acquire a characteristic "shark fin" shape that's steeper on one side than the other and quite pointy at the top. On a one-by or single-speed bike, that's pretty easy to identify; on a bike with front derailleurs, be aware that the chain rings tend to have several teeth with funny profiles from new, to aid with shifting.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 3 hours ago









        David RicherbyDavid Richerby

        12k33461




        12k33461























            2














            Why did you replace a 3/32" chain with a 1/8" one?? I agree that it seems like it would work, given the pitch and lack of cages to run through, but there will still be a lot of sideways slop leading to, at least, more noise and wear. And no benefit whatsoever. And the narrower chains are even more common.



            Often the diameter of the pins is greater on 1/8" chains, so it might not be seating well between the teeth. The most common cause of a new chain skipping is an over-tight joining link but that should not happen on a single-speed setup, though it could if it's really tight, but you probably would have seen that. And I second the answer about wear to the teeth profiles. Consider replacing the rear sprocket.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





















            • I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

              – Daniel
              24 mins ago
















            2














            Why did you replace a 3/32" chain with a 1/8" one?? I agree that it seems like it would work, given the pitch and lack of cages to run through, but there will still be a lot of sideways slop leading to, at least, more noise and wear. And no benefit whatsoever. And the narrower chains are even more common.



            Often the diameter of the pins is greater on 1/8" chains, so it might not be seating well between the teeth. The most common cause of a new chain skipping is an over-tight joining link but that should not happen on a single-speed setup, though it could if it's really tight, but you probably would have seen that. And I second the answer about wear to the teeth profiles. Consider replacing the rear sprocket.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





















            • I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

              – Daniel
              24 mins ago














            2












            2








            2







            Why did you replace a 3/32" chain with a 1/8" one?? I agree that it seems like it would work, given the pitch and lack of cages to run through, but there will still be a lot of sideways slop leading to, at least, more noise and wear. And no benefit whatsoever. And the narrower chains are even more common.



            Often the diameter of the pins is greater on 1/8" chains, so it might not be seating well between the teeth. The most common cause of a new chain skipping is an over-tight joining link but that should not happen on a single-speed setup, though it could if it's really tight, but you probably would have seen that. And I second the answer about wear to the teeth profiles. Consider replacing the rear sprocket.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.










            Why did you replace a 3/32" chain with a 1/8" one?? I agree that it seems like it would work, given the pitch and lack of cages to run through, but there will still be a lot of sideways slop leading to, at least, more noise and wear. And no benefit whatsoever. And the narrower chains are even more common.



            Often the diameter of the pins is greater on 1/8" chains, so it might not be seating well between the teeth. The most common cause of a new chain skipping is an over-tight joining link but that should not happen on a single-speed setup, though it could if it's really tight, but you probably would have seen that. And I second the answer about wear to the teeth profiles. Consider replacing the rear sprocket.







            share|improve this answer








            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer






            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.









            answered 48 mins ago









            M. HoehneM. Hoehne

            211




            211




            New contributor




            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.





            New contributor





            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.






            M. Hoehne is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
            Check out our Code of Conduct.













            • I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

              – Daniel
              24 mins ago



















            • I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

              – Daniel
              24 mins ago

















            I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

            – Daniel
            24 mins ago





            I just heard that 1/8" chains are more robust and have a longer life and I thought why not given the compatibility.

            – Daniel
            24 mins ago


















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